Korean skincare routines: what to borrow and what to skip.

01 / The trend

What a Korean routine usually involves.

The routine most people mean is the ten-step version. As Cleveland Clinic describes it, it runs roughly like this:[1]

1. an oil-based cleanser;
2. a water-based cleanser;
3. an exfoliant, once or twice a week;
4. a toner;
5. an essence;
6. a serum, ampoule or face oil for your main concern;
7. a sheet mask, not every day;
8. an eye cream;
9. a moisturiser;
10. sunscreen.

The dermatologist interviewed in that article does not recommend all ten steps for most people, and makes a practical point: given a ten-step routine, most people will reliably do only two or three of the steps.[1] A routine you can keep matters more than one that looks complete. A routine that fits your life is easier to keep makes the same case.

02 / What travels well

Three ideas worth borrowing.

Gentleness

The approach favours products that respect the skin rather than strip it: gentle formulas, no stripping of natural oils and not many active ingredients at once.[1]

Hydration

Most steps carry some hydration. A useful test from the same source: if a product leaves your face tight or dry, it is not the right one for you.[1] Hydration and moisturisation explains how the two work together.

Sunscreen, every morning

Sun protection finishes the routine.[1] The AAD recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, applied generously and reapplied every two hours when you are outdoors, or after swimming or sweating.[6] See choosing a sunscreen you will actually use.

Korean sunscreens are often singled out for their textures,[1] and a texture you enjoy is one you are more likely to use every day. That is a good reason to try one. It is not a reason to assume any product suits your skin because of where it was made.

03 / The first two steps

Double cleansing: borrow it if you need it.

The oil cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser is double cleansing. A Cleveland Clinic dermatologist describes it as helpful for people who wear make-up, especially waterproof make-up or water-resistant sunscreen, and as usually unnecessary otherwise: for most people, one thorough wash with a gentle cleanser is enough. Overwashing can lead to dryness, irritation and a weakened skin barrier.[4]

So the question is not whether double cleansing is Korean, but whether your evening needs it. Do you really need to double cleanse? walks through it.

04 / What to leave out

What you can skip, or save for later.

The AAD notes that using too many products may irritate the skin, especially more than one anti-ageing product,[3] and dermatologists commenting on multi-step social media routines warn that too many products can lead to clogged pores, irritation and breakouts.[2]

• Overlapping layers. A toner, an essence and a serum can all be hydrating. If your skin is comfortable with one, three may add nothing but cost.
• Several actives at once. Exfoliating acids, retinoids and strong serums in the same routine are where irritation tends to start. Active ingredients: when more is not better explains why.
• Daily masks. Even in the routine itself, sheet masks are not an everyday step.[1] They can be a pleasant extra, not a requirement.
• Frequent exfoliation. The routine places it once or twice a week, not daily.[1] Some skin needs even less.

Order still matters once you have chosen your products. The AAD’s simple sequence is cleanse, then any treatment, then moisturiser and/or sunscreen, then make-up.[3] Skincare product order covers layering in more detail.

05 / Your version

A borrowed routine, built slowly.

Start with the principles and only as many steps as your skin needs. A typical borrowed version might look like this.

1. Morning.

   A gentle cleanse, an optional hydrating layer, a moisturiser and sunscreen.

2. Evening.

   An oil cleanser first if you wore make-up or water-resistant sunscreen, then a gentle cleanser, then one treatment if you use one, then a moisturiser.

3. Once or twice a week, if at all.

   Gentle exfoliation or a mask, on evenings when you are not using another strong product.

4. One new product at a time.

   Adding products slowly helps you see what works and spot a reaction.[1] The AAD suggests testing a new product on a small area, such as the inner arm, twice a day for seven to ten days before using it on your face.[5] More in how to introduce a new skincare product.

If what drew you to Korean skincare was the glow, glass skin: a realistic routine for a healthy glow looks at that trend on its own.

06 / Handle with care

Sensitive skin, conditions and reactions.

Gentle does not mean suitable for everyone. Cleveland Clinic advises extra care with new products if your skin is sensitive, particularly with fragrance or preservatives, since even well-formulated products can cause an allergic reaction or intolerance. If you have acne, rosacea or eczema, choose products carefully and patch test first.[1]

If your skin has started stinging, flushing or breaking out since you added steps, the routine may simply have become too much; sensitive skin, or a routine that has become too much? helps you tell the difference. A reaction that is severe, persistent or keeps coming back, or redness and breakouts that do not settle, should be seen by a doctor. Self-diagnosis is not reliable, and when a skin concern needs a dermatologist lists the signs.

A few common questions

Frequently asked questions.