Journal / Ingredients
Starting retinol: questions to ask before adding it.
Retinol is one of the better-studied ingredients in skincare, and one of the easiest to start badly. A few honest answers before the first night make the difference between a routine you keep and one you abandon.
The short answer
Before you start retinol, be clear about why you want it, check what else in your routine is already active, and make sure your skin is calm and that you will wear sunscreen every day. If you are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, speak to your doctor first. Then start with a low-strength product, a pea-sized amount at night, every other night or less, and increase only as your skin tolerates it.
01 / The reason
What do you want it for?
Retinol is a retinoid, part of a family of vitamin A ingredients that ranges from gentle cosmetic forms to prescription medicines. If the family itself is unclear, retinol, retinal and retinoids explained sets out the differences.
Name the concern you hope it will address, in a sentence. That sentence decides how much patience you need and whether a cosmetic product is the right starting point at all.
- Expect to wait. The AAD notes that most skincare products take at least six weeks to work, and sometimes up to three months.[3] Judging retinol after a fortnight tells you very little.
- Acne scarring. The AAD advises people with moderate or severe acne scarring to see a board-certified dermatologist before trying a retinoid.[1]
- Active acne. Prescription retinoids and acne treatment plans are a doctor’s matter. A cosmetic retinol is not a substitute for that assessment.
02 / Your current routine
What else in your routine is already active?
Retinol rarely causes trouble on its own as much as it does in a crowded routine. The AAD warns that using several anti-aging products at the same time can irritate the skin.[3] Before you add anything, write down what you already use.
- Exfoliating acids
- Cleveland Clinic suggests alternating days, or keeping glycolic or salicylic acid for the morning and retinol for the night.[2] Many people find it simpler to pause the acid while retinol settles in. See retinol and exfoliating acids.
- Vitamin C
- The same source suggests vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.[2] Morning and evening skincare explains how the two routines divide the work.
- Another retinoid
- Use only one retinol product at a time.[2] Check serums, creams and eye products for a second one hiding in the routine.
- Prescribed treatments
- If a doctor has prescribed a retinoid such as tretinoin, or an acne plan that includes benzoyl peroxide, do not add a cosmetic retinol without asking the prescriber first.
If the list is already long, the better first step may be to remove something. Active ingredients: when more is not better walks through how to simplify.
03 / Tolerance today
How is your skin right now?
Start retinol on calm skin, not on skin that is already complaining. Cleveland Clinic advises against using retinol on sunburned or broken skin, or skin that is otherwise irritated.[2]
- Dry or allergy-prone skin. The AAD describes people with skin allergies or dryness as probably not good candidates for retinoid products.[1]
- A lot of redness or inflammation. The AAD advises avoiding retinoids and asking a dermatologist about other options.[1]
- Skin of colour. Irritation can trigger dark marks. The AAD notes that starting slowly and using a moisturiser help reduce that possibility.[1]
If you are unsure whether your skin is sensitive by nature or reacting to too much, read sensitive skin or a routine that has become too much before you begin.
04 / The daytime half
Will you wear sunscreen every day?
The AAD states that retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun. Its advice is to use them only at night and always use sun protection during the day, on all skin not covered by clothing.[1] Cleveland Clinic recommends at least SPF 30, together with protective clothing and hats.[2]
If daily sunscreen is not yet a habit, build that first. Choosing a sunscreen you will actually use is the place to start, and if you wear make-up, reapplying sunscreen over make-up covers the rest of the day.
05 / A medical question
Pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding?
Speak to your doctor first
The AAD states that retinoids should not be used during pregnancy.[1] It also advises anyone who is pregnant or trying to get pregnant to consult a dermatologist before treating acne on their own.[4]
For breastfeeding, Cleveland Clinic says healthcare providers believe the risk to the baby is low, but recommends discussing topical products with your provider and not applying retinol to the breast area.[2]
If you are already using retinol and find out you are pregnant, stop and mention it to your doctor or midwife. For the wider routine, see reviewing your skincare in pregnancy.
06 / The first weeks
Start low and slow, and know when to stop.
Dermatologists quoted by the AAD advise starting with the least intense formula you can find and using it every other night at first, building up slowly.[1] Cleveland Clinic gives similar, practical steps.[2]
-
Patch test.
Try a little on a small area of skin before using it on your whole face.[2]
-
Use a pea-sized amount at night.
Spread it in a thin layer over the face at bedtime, after a gentle cleanse, and follow with a non-comedogenic moisturiser.[2]
-
Begin with a few nights a week.
Every other night for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days, then increase gradually as your skin tolerates it.[1][2] There is no prize for reaching every night quickly.
-
Change one thing at a time.
If retinol is new, keep the rest of the routine the same, so you know what any reaction is responding to. See how to introduce a new skincare product.
What early irritation can look like
Cleveland Clinic lists dry, irritated skin; redness, peeling, flaking or scaling; and itching or burning. It says these should gradually go away as the skin gets used to the treatment, without giving a fixed timeframe.[2] If they build rather than settle, go back to fewer nights or pause altogether. Purging or irritation? helps tell the two apart.
When to stop and get advice
Stop using the product and contact a doctor or dermatologist if you have a severe reaction,[2] such as swelling, blistering, intense burning or a rash that spreads. Self-assessment is not reliable for a reaction like this.
A few common questions
Frequently asked questions.
How often should I use retinol when I am just starting?
Every other night or less at first. Cleveland Clinic suggests every other day for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days, then increasing gradually as your skin tolerates it.[2]
How much retinol should I put on my face?
About the size of a pea, spread in a thin layer over the whole face.[2] Using more does not make it work faster and is more likely to irritate.
Should I use retinol in the morning or at night?
At night. The AAD advises using retinoids only at night, because they can make skin more sensitive to the sun, and wearing sun protection every day.[1]
Can I use retinol with AHA or BHA acids?
Not on the same night when you are starting. Cleveland Clinic suggests alternating days, or using the acid in the morning and retinol at night.[2] Pausing the acid for the first weeks is often simpler.
Can I use retinol while pregnant or breastfeeding?
Is redness and peeling normal when starting retinol?
Mild dryness, redness and peeling are common early side effects and should gradually ease.[2] If they get worse, use it less often or pause. Stop and seek medical advice for swelling, blistering or intense burning.
Sources & scope
This Journal article offers general skincare education and a checklist for deciding whether and how to start a cosmetic retinol. It does not provide a diagnosis, prescribe treatment or replace individual medical advice. Prescription retinoids, and any use of retinoids around pregnancy, are matters for a doctor. The points above draw on the following published resources.
- Retinoid or retinol? (American Academy of Dermatology) — starting slowly, night-time use, sun sensitivity, pregnancy and who should see a dermatologist first.
- Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Use (Cleveland Clinic) — patch testing, amount, frequency, side effects, combining with other ingredients, pregnancy and breastfeeding.
- How to maximize results from anti-aging skin care products (American Academy of Dermatology) — irritation from using several products at once and how long products take to work.
- Adult acne treatment dermatologists recommend (American Academy of Dermatology) — advice for anyone pregnant or trying to get pregnant.
Editorial: Merve Akkaya Journal. Learn more about Merve Akkaya.
Continue reading
A little more clarity.
Start with a conversation
A new active should fit the routine.
If you are unsure whether retinol belongs in your routine, or what it should replace, bring your current products to the conversation. The answer often starts with what is already there.
Tell us what you use now and what you hope retinol will change. You can explore the consultation options before making an enquiry.
For prescription retinoids or pregnancy questions, please speak to your doctor.