Journal / Skincare foundations

Where to spend and where to save in your skincare routine.

Merve Akkaya Journal · Published · About Merve Akkaya

Price tells you very little about what a product will do. A better question is which steps your routine depends on, and which purchases you could not explain if asked.

Merve Akkaya Journal 7 minute read Sources & scope

The short answer

Put your budget into the products you use every day and will use properly: a cleanser, a moisturiser and a sunscreen you like. Effective products exist at every price. Save by avoiding duplicates, and by treating dramatic claims with caution.

01 / Price and effect

Expensive is not a measure of effective.

The American Academy of Dermatology is plain on this point: products do not need to be expensive to be effective.[1] In its guidance on anti-ageing products it adds that it is human nature to assume a more expensive product gives better results, and that effective products come in all price ranges.[2]

What you pay for varies. Some of the price reflects ingredients and testing. Some reflects packaging, fragrance, advertising and the feel of the product. None of this is hidden or wrong, and enjoying a product is a fair reason to buy it. It helps to know which part you are paying for.

02 / Where it counts

Put your budget into what you use daily.

The AAD describes a three-step approach of cleansing, moisturising and protecting, and notes that it can reduce skincare costs while keeping skin healthy.[1] Those three are where consistency matters, so they are where a product you like is worth paying for.

Sunscreen
The product to get right. You need at least a teaspoon for the face each day.[5] A sunscreen you dislike will be applied thinly or not at all, so comfort is worth paying for here. An expensive one used sparingly protects less than an affordable one used properly. See choosing a sunscreen you will actually use.
Moisturiser
Used once or twice daily on the whole face. Choose for how it feels and how your skin tolerates it. The AAD calls sunscreen and moisturiser the two most effective anti-ageing products you can buy.[2]
One targeted product
If you have a specific concern, one well-chosen product for it is a reasonable place to spend. The AAD advises focusing on a single concern.[2]

“Spend” here means choosing carefully, which is not always the same as paying more. A mid-priced product you finish is better value than a luxury one you ration.

03 / Where less is fine

Where you can usually save.

Cleanser
Its job is to clean gently and be rinsed away. Gentle, fragrance-free cleansers are widely available at modest prices.
Duplicates
Two serums for the same concern, or three moisturisers open at once. Finish one before buying another.
Combined products
The AAD suggests considering dual-function products, such as a moisturiser with sunscreen, as a way to reduce cost.[1]
Plain products
The AAD notes that petroleum jelly is inexpensive and has several uses, including moisturising dry skin and nails.[1] For dry skin, it adds that you may already have the product you need at home.[3]
The number of products
The AAD points out that using several different products can be costly, and can irritate the skin.[1]

The last item is the largest saving available to most people. A simple skincare routine costs less because it contains less.

Merve Akkaya seated on a chair in a black dress.
Merve Akkaya. A product review often finds that fewer items are doing most of the work.

04 / Reading the box

Claims to treat with caution.

Some of the highest prices are attached to the largest promises. The AAD’s advice is to have realistic expectations.[2]

  • “Clinically proven.” According to the AAD, this means the product was given to consumers to try. It does not mean the product went through clinical trials and received regulatory approval.[2]
  • Overnight or dramatic change. Promises such as looking ten years younger overnight are, in the AAD’s words, too good to be true. Anti-ageing products deliver modest results.[2]
  • Lifting and firming creams. The AAD states that results from skin-firming creams are subtle at best, and that an immediate effect usually means the product is a good moisturiser.[4]
  • Long ingredient stories. A list of impressive names says little about how a product will behave on your skin. See how to read an ingredient list without overinterpreting it.

None of this means a costly product cannot be good. It means the claim on the box should not be the reason you buy it.

05 / Your own shelf

A cost check for what you own.

Before the next purchase, look at what you already have.

  1. Sort by use.

    Daily, occasional, and not used in the last month.

  2. Work out cost per use.

    A product that costs twice as much and lasts three times as long is the cheaper one.

  3. Find the overlap.

    Group products by the job they do. More than one per job is a candidate for not repurchasing.

  4. Check what you ration.

    If you apply a product sparingly because of its price, it may not be doing what you bought it for.

  5. Buy to replace, one at a time.

    Introduce a new product singly so that you can tell whether it earns its place.

A review before a purchase.

A Skin Edit looks at the products you own and what each is for. It is often cheaper than the next three products you were going to try.

See how Skin Edit works

06 / Beyond products

Budgeting for professional care.

The same thinking applies to treatments. A session is worth its cost when it has a purpose you can state, and a course is worth committing to when you understand why that number of sessions is proposed.

Comparing on price alone can mislead, because treatments with similar names differ in what they include. See how to compare facial treatments beyond price and when professional skincare belongs in the plan. A consultation comes before any treatment decision.

One place not to economise

If you have a skin concern that is painful, persistent or unexplained, see a dermatologist instead of spending on further products. The AAD notes that skincare products deliver modest results and that no single product can treat every concern.[2]

A few common questions

Frequently asked questions.

Are expensive skincare products better?

Not necessarily. The AAD states that products do not need to be expensive to be effective and that effective products come in all price ranges.[1][2]

Which skincare product is most worth spending on?

A sunscreen you are happy to apply generously every day, followed by a moisturiser you tolerate well. The AAD describes these as the two most effective anti-ageing products you can buy.[2]

Is an affordable cleanser good enough?

Often, yes. A cleanser needs to be gentle and suit your skin. Many inexpensive, fragrance-free cleansers meet that description.

What does “clinically proven” mean on skincare?

According to the AAD, it means the product was given to consumers to try. It does not mean it underwent clinical trials or received regulatory approval.[2]

How can I spend less on skincare?

Use fewer products. Keep to cleansing, moisturising and sun protection, consider dual-function products and finish what you have before buying more.[1]

Is professional skincare worth the cost?

It can be, when it has a clear purpose and you understand what is included. Ask what the treatment is intended to do and how progress will be reviewed before you commit.

Sources & scope

This Journal article offers general skincare education and a way to set spending priorities for a skincare routine. It does not provide a diagnosis, prescribe treatment or replace individual medical advice. The points above draw on the following published resources.

  1. Skin care on a budget (American Academy of Dermatology) — effective skincare at low cost and the three-step approach.
  2. How to select anti-aging skin care products (American Academy of Dermatology) — price, product claims and realistic expectations.
  3. Dermatologists’ top tips for relieving dry skin (American Academy of Dermatology) — simple products that relieve dry skin.
  4. Many ways to firm sagging skin (American Academy of Dermatology) — what skin-firming creams can and cannot do.
  5. How to apply sunscreen (American Academy of Dermatology) — how much sunscreen is needed.

Editorial: Merve Akkaya Journal. Learn more about Merve Akkaya.

Continue reading

A little more clarity.

Routine foundations

A Skincare Routine Does Not Need to Be Complicated

The short routine that most spending decisions should start from.

Read the routine guide

Sun protection

Choosing a Sunscreen You Will Actually Use

How to choose the daily product that most deserves your budget.

Read the sunscreen guide

Ingredients

Active Ingredients: When More Is Not Better

Why buying several strong products at once rarely pays off.

Read about active ingredients

Start with a conversation

Spend on what you use, and know why.

If your shelf holds more than your routine needs, a review can show which products are doing the work.

Tell us what you use and what you are thinking of buying. You can explore the consultation options before making an enquiry.

A conversation about suitability comes before choosing a treatment.

Merve Akkaya — Skin, considered. Back to the Journal
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