How to introduce a new skincare product without changing everything.

01 / The reasoning

Why one product at a time.

When three new products arrive in the same week and your skin improves, you do not know which one helped. When your skin reacts, you do not know which one to stop. In both cases the only reliable option is to begin again.

The American Academy of Dermatology gives a second reason. Using several anti-ageing products at the same time can irritate your skin, and its advice is to start with one.[2] In acne care, it lists trying a new treatment every week or so among the habits that can irritate skin and cause breakouts.[3]

Adding one product and holding everything else steady turns a guess into an observation. This is the same principle that runs through understanding what your skin needs.

02 / Before opening it

Three checks before the first use.

What is it for?

State the job in a sentence. The AAD suggests choosing a product for one concern, formulated for your skin type.[4]

What does it replace or join?

If you already use something for the same purpose, decide which one stays. Adding a second product for one job is how routines become crowded; see active ingredients: when more is not better.

What do the directions say?

How much, how often, at what time of day. The AAD warns that applying more of an active product than directed can cause clogged pores, blotchy skin or excessive dryness.[2]

If the product is a retinoid, there are further questions worth asking first; see starting retinol.

03 / A small trial

Test it on a small area first.

The AAD recommends testing a skincare product before adding it to your routine, and describes how.[1]

1. Choose a test spot.

   A patch about the size of a coin, somewhere the product will not be rubbed or washed away, such as the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow.

2. Apply as you normally would.

   Use the usual amount, twice daily, for seven to ten days. Leave it on for as long as you would in normal use. For something you rinse off, such as a cleanser, leave it for five minutes or as long as the instructions say.

3. Watch the area.

   If the skin stays free of redness, itching and swelling after seven to ten days, the AAD’s advice is to go ahead and use the product.

The AAD’s guidance on anti-ageing products describes a shorter version: a small amount on the inner forearm, twice a day for four to five days.[2] Either way, the idea is several days of repeated use on a small area before the product reaches your face.

04 / Into the routine

Bring it in on its own.

Once the test is clear, add the product to your routine and change nothing else.

• Keep your cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen exactly as they were.
• Use the amount and frequency in the directions. With retinoids, dermatologists quoted by the AAD advise starting slowly and building up.[5]
• Place it where it belongs in the sequence; see skincare product order.
• Make a short note of the date you started and anything you notice. A skin diary need be no more than a line a day.
• Wait until this product has settled in before introducing the next.

05 / Reading the result

Give it time, and know when to stop.

Two things can happen after you start: nothing obvious, or something unwelcome.

Nothing yet

This is normal. The AAD notes that most products take at least six weeks to work and some up to three months.[2] Acne treatments typically need six to eight weeks to show some improvement.[3] How long to wait in general is discussed in how long should you observe your skin before changing your routine.

Mild, expected irritation

The AAD notes that some ingredients, such as retinol and glycolic acid, can irritate the skin, particularly sensitive skin, and describes this as normal and temporary.[1]

A reaction

Red, itchy or swollen skin. Wash the product off gently as soon as possible and do not use it again. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help.[1]

Stinging or burning

The AAD advises stopping a product that stings, burns or tingles, unless a dermatologist prescribed it, in which case ask first.[2]

Some responses are harder to read. New breakouts may be purging or irritation, and the same product can feel different on different days. If you had to stop several products because of a reaction, the guide to reintroducing products after irritation explains how to bring them back.

06 / When to ask

When a reaction needs more than patience.

For routine questions that are not medical, a consultation is a place to talk through what you are using and what you hope to change. If your skin has become reactive in general, read sensitive skin or a routine that has become too much.

A few common questions

Frequently asked questions.